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A free guide to getting stains out of clothes, carpets and hard surfaces

From red wine to rust, each stain comes with the method for three surfaces: the steps in order, what to use from the cupboard, and what never to do.

Express Stainless · Stain chart. Read it like a care label: left to right, then the cross.

How to use the finder
01

Blood

Protein: heat cooks it into the fibres, so keep everything cold until the stain has gone.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1RinseCold

    Run the cold tap through the back of the stain, so the water pushes the blood out the way it came in.

  2. 2TreatCold

    Work a little biological detergent into the mark with your fingertips (a wool detergent on wool and silk), then rinse in cold water.

  3. 3SoakHours

    Soak any mark left for a few hours in cold water with biological detergent, or in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  4. 4Dab3%

    On white cotton or linen, dab a last shadow with 3% hydrogen peroxide from the chemist, after a patch test, then rinse.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check the stain has gone before drying.

Never use hot water or the tumble dryer until the stain has gone: heat sets blood into the fibres.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Blot

    Blot up as much as you can with a white cloth or kitchen roll, working from the outside in.

  2. 2MixCold

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid into a mug of cold water, and patch test it on a hidden spot.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab it onto the stain with a clean white cloth and blot, moving to a clean part of the cloth as the colour lifts.

  4. 4RinseCold

    Rinse by dabbing with a cloth dampened in cold water, then press a pad of kitchen roll on the spot to dry it.

Never use hot water or a steam cleaner, which set the stain, or soak the spot, which carries it into the backing.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeCold

    Wearing rubber gloves, wipe up fresh blood with kitchen roll and cold water.

  2. 2Soften10 min

    Soften dried blood by laying a cloth soaked in cold water and a drop of washing-up liquid over it for 10 minutes.

  3. 3Wipe

    Wipe it away, using an old toothbrush on grout, where blood soaks in fast.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse with clean water and dry.

Never mix bleach with anything else you use here: with ammonia, vinegar or an acid descaler, it gives off toxic gas.

02

Candle wax

Wax, often with dye in it: let it set hard and lift it off, then treat the greasy or coloured mark it leaves.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Harden1 hr

    Let the wax harden, or put the garment in a bag in the freezer for an hour.

  2. 2Crack

    Crack the wax and lift off as much as you can with a blunt knife.

  3. 3PressWarm

    Put the fabric between sheets of brown paper and press with a warm, dry iron, moving the paper as it soaks up the wax.

  4. 4Treat

    Work washing-up liquid into any greasy shadow, and treat a coloured mark with a stain remover that suits the fabric.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never put the iron straight onto the wax, or iron a fabric whose care label says not to.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Harden

    Harden the wax with a bag of ice, then break it up, lift the pieces with a blunt knife and vacuum.

  2. 2TestLow

    Test an iron on a low, dry setting through brown paper on a hidden spot first: some synthetic fibres melt.

  3. 3Press

    Lay brown paper over the wax and press briefly with the iron, moving the paper until no more wax comes up.

  4. 4DabWarm

    Dab any coloured mark with a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water.

  5. 5Blot

    Blot with a cloth dampened in clean water, and let it dry.

Never use a hot iron or hold it in one place: synthetic carpet fibres melt.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1HardenMins

    Let the wax harden fully, or hold a bag of ice on it for a few minutes.

  2. 2Ease off

    Ease it off with a plastic scraper or an old bank card.

  3. 3SoftenLow

    Soften any thin film left with a hairdryer on low and wipe it away with kitchen roll.

  4. 4WashWarm

    Wash the spot with warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid, then dry.

Never scrape wood or stone with a metal knife, or turn high heat on a varnished table: both leave marks.

03

Chewing gum

Sticky gum base: cold makes it brittle, so freeze it hard and it snaps off instead of smearing deeper.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Harden2 hr

    Put the garment in a plastic bag in the freezer for a couple of hours, or hold a bag of ice on the gum.

  2. 2Scrape

    Once the gum is brittle, pick and scrape it off with a blunt knife, working fast before it softens.

  3. 3Treat

    Work a little washing-up liquid into any sticky mark with your fingertips, then rinse.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never put it in the washing machine or the tumble dryer with gum still on: the heat melts it into the fabric and onto the rest of the load.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Harden10–15 min

    Hold a bag of ice cubes on the gum for 10 to 15 minutes, until it is hard.

  2. 2Shatter

    Shatter it with the back of a spoon, pick out the pieces and vacuum.

  3. 3DabWarm

    Dab any residue with a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water, after a patch test.

  4. 4Blot

    Blot with a cloth dampened in clean water, and let it dry.

Never pull at gum while it is soft: it stretches deeper into the pile.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1HardenMins

    Harden the gum with a bag of ice for a few minutes.

  2. 2Lever off

    Lever it off with a plastic scraper or an old bank card.

  3. 3WipeWarm

    Wipe away the residue with warm water and washing-up liquid, then rinse and dry.

Never scrape wood, laminate or vinyl floors with a metal blade: it scratches the finish.

04

Chocolate

Protein, fat and colour together: cold water for the milk, washing-up liquid for the fat, then a normal wash.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Scrape

    Scrape off what you can with a blunt knife; if it is soft, chill the garment in the fridge first so it lifts cleanly.

  2. 2RinseCold

    Rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap.

  3. 3Treat15 min

    Work in a little washing-up liquid with your fingertips and leave it for 15 minutes.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Rinse, then wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use hot water before the stain has had a cold rinse: heat sets the milk.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Set

    Let melted chocolate set (a bag of ice speeds it up), then scrape off the solids with a blunt knife and vacuum the crumbs.

  2. 2MixCold

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid into a mug of cold water, patch test it, and dab it on with a white cloth.

  3. 3Blot

    Blot from the outside in until no more colour comes up.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with a cloth dampened in clean water, then blot dry.

Never rub melted chocolate: it pushes the fat deeper into the pile and spreads the mark.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Lift

    Let it set, then lift it off with a plastic scraper or spatula.

  2. 2WipeWarm

    Wipe with a cloth wrung out in warm water and washing-up liquid to break up the fat.

  3. 3Rinse

    Rinse with a clean damp cloth and dry.

Never use a scouring pad on gloss, glass or painted surfaces: it scratches them.

05

Coffee

Tannin, with protein if it had milk in it: cold water first, then detergent, and start straight away, because it sets as it dries.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1BlotCold

    Blot up what you can with kitchen roll, then rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap.

  2. 2Treat10 min

    Work in a little washing-up liquid or liquid detergent with your fingertips and leave it for 10 minutes.

  3. 3Soak

    Rinse, and soak any mark left in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use bar soap or soap flakes: true soap can set a tannin stain.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1BlotNow

    Blot straight away with a white cloth or kitchen roll, pressing firmly, from the outside in.

  2. 2DabCold

    Dab on cold water and blot again, until no more colour comes up.

  3. 3MixCool

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid and a tablespoon of white vinegar into a mug of cool water, and patch test it.

  4. 4Dab

    Dab it on and blot, then rinse by dabbing with clean water.

  5. 5Dry1 hr

    Weigh down a thick pad of kitchen roll on the spot for an hour.

Never soak the carpet: water that reaches the backing brings the stain back up as it dries.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe up spills straight away with a damp cloth, and clean dried rings with warm water and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub any mark left on laminate, ceramic or stainless steel with a bicarbonate of soda paste on a soft cloth, then rinse.

  3. 3Soak1 hr

    Soak stained flasks and cafetières in hot water with a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda for an hour, then wash.

  4. 4Dry

    Dry everything with a clean cloth.

Never use bleach or wire wool on stainless steel: bleach pits it and wire wool scratches it.

06

Curry and turmeric

Oil with a strong yellow dye: break up the oil first, then fade the colour, which daylight helps with.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1ScrapeCold

    Scrape off any sauce with a spoon, then rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap.

  2. 2Treat10 min

    Work washing-up liquid into the mark to break up the oil, leave it for 10 minutes, and rinse.

  3. 3Soak

    Soak it in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Rinse well (a stain that turned red in the soak goes back to yellow), then wash as the care label says.

  5. 5Daylight

    If a yellow shadow is left, dry the garment outdoors in daylight, which fades turmeric, then wash it again.

Never tumble dry until the yellow has gone: heat sets the dye.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Scoop

    Scoop up the solids with a spoon, working from the outside in.

  2. 2Blot

    Blot with kitchen roll to take up as much oil as you can.

  3. 3DabCold

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of cold water, after a patch test, and blot from the outside in.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

  5. 5Treat

    If yellow is left, use a carpet stain remover made for the fibre, after a patch test, or call a carpet cleaner.

Never rub: the oil carries the dye further into the pile with every stroke.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe up straight away with kitchen roll, then wash with warm water and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Paste15 min

    Rub a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water into marks on plastic, laminate or grout, leave it for 15 minutes, then rinse.

  3. 3Daylight1–2 days

    Leave stained plastic tubs and utensils on a sunny windowsill for a day or two: daylight fades turmeric.

Never use a scouring pad on plastic or acrylic: the scratches hold the dye and stain faster next time.

07

Deodorant marks

Residue: antiperspirant salts and waxes sit on the surface and build up, so dissolve them rather than scrub.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Brush

    Brush fresh white marks off with a clean, dry sock or a soft cloth, or dab them with a damp sponge.

  2. 2Soak30 min

    For stiff build-up, soak the underarms for 30 minutes in one part white vinegar to four parts cool water, after a patch test.

  3. 3WashLabel

    Work in a little liquid detergent, then wash as the care label says.

  4. 4Check

    Let it dry naturally, and check the marks have gone before ironing or tumble drying.

Never iron over the marks: heat bakes the residue into the fibres.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Scrape

    Scrape off any lumps of stick deodorant with a blunt knife.

  2. 2Vacuum

    Vacuum or brush away dry white residue.

  3. 3DabWarm

    Dab what is left with a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water, after a patch test.

  4. 4Blot

    Blot with a cloth dampened in clean water, then let it dry.

Never soak the spot: the residue spreads and dries as a wider ring.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe the sticky film that spray deodorant leaves on tiles, glass and vinyl floors with equal parts white vinegar and warm water.

  2. 2SoftenMins

    Leave it for a few minutes to soften.

  3. 3WipeWarm

    Wipe it away with a microfibre cloth, and mop floors with warm water and a little washing-up liquid.

  4. 4Buff

    Buff mirrors and glass dry.

Never use vinegar on marble or limestone, or mix it with a bleach-based bathroom cleaner: it etches the stone, and with bleach it gives off toxic gas.

08

Fake tan

Dye that keeps developing: the tanning agent darkens for hours after it touches fabric, so rinse it out before the colour sets.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Blot

    Blot off any wet tan with kitchen roll.

  2. 2RinseCold

    Rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap until the water runs clear.

  3. 3Treat10 min

    Work in washing-up liquid with your fingertips to lift the oils in the tan, leave it for 10 minutes, and rinse.

  4. 4Soak

    If a mark is left, soak it in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use hot water or the tumble dryer until it has gone: heat helps the tan develop and set.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1BlotNow

    Blot wet tan straight away with kitchen roll, without wiping.

  2. 2MixCold

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid into a mug of cold water, patch test it, and dab it on with a white cloth.

  3. 3Blot

    Blot from the outside in, moving to a clean part of the cloth as the colour lifts.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

  5. 5Treat

    For a dark, set mark, use a carpet stain remover made for the fibre, or call a professional.

Never use hot water or a steam cleaner: heat helps the tan develop and fixes it in the fibres.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeNow

    Wipe up straight away with a damp cloth and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub marks left on ceramic, enamel or acrylic gently with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water on a soft cloth.

  3. 3Scrub10 min

    Scrub the paste into stained grout with an old toothbrush, leave it for 10 minutes, then rinse.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse everything and dry.

Never use scouring powder or a scourer on an acrylic bath or shower tray: they scratch, and the scratches hold the next stain.

09

Foundation

Oil and pigment: washing-up liquid breaks up the oil and the colour comes out with it, but brush powder off dry first.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Lift

    Lift off any excess with a blunt knife, and shake or brush powder foundation off dry.

  2. 2TreatCold

    Dampen the stain with cold water, then work in a little washing-up liquid with your fingertips.

  3. 3Rinse10 min

    Leave it for 10 minutes, then rinse under the cold tap through the back of the fabric.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never wet powder foundation before you have brushed it off: water turns it into a paste that sinks into the weave.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Lift

    Lift off any excess with a blunt knife, or vacuum up loose powder.

  2. 2DabCold

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of cold water with a white cloth, after a patch test.

  3. 3Blot

    Blot from the outside in until no more colour comes off on the cloth.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never rub, which spreads the pigment, or soak the spot, which pushes it into the backing.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe with a cloth wrung out in warm water and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2SoftenMins

    Lay the soapy cloth over dried marks for a few minutes to soften the oil.

  3. 3Wipe

    Wipe clean, rinse with a damp cloth and dry.

Never use isopropyl alcohol on French-polished or lacquered wood: it can dissolve the finish.

10

Grass

Protein and green dye: the enzymes in biological detergent break it down, and heat sets it, so keep it cool.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Brush

    Brush off any dried mud or bits of grass.

  2. 2Treat15–30 min

    Work liquid biological detergent into the stain with your fingertips or a soft brush, and leave it for 15 to 30 minutes.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab any green left with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton wool pad, after a patch test on a hidden seam, then rinse. Keep alcohol off acetate, triacetate, acrylic and modacrylic, which it can damage.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use biological detergent on wool or silk: the enzymes that break down grass damage those fibres too.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Vacuum

    Vacuum off any dried mud first.

  2. 2DabCold

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of cold water, after a patch test, and blot from the outside in.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab any green left with a white cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol, after a patch test, then blot.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never scrub with a stiff brush: it frays the pile and drives the green into the base of the fibres.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe with warm water and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Scrub

    Scrub green marks on trainer soles or plastic garden furniture with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water and an old toothbrush.

  3. 3Rinse

    Rinse and dry.

Never use a wire brush or metal scourer on plastic or rubber: the scratches hold the green next time.

11

Grease and cooking oil

Oil: water alone runs off it, so soak it up with a dry powder first, then break it up with washing-up liquid.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Blot

    Blot off what you can with kitchen roll.

  2. 2Absorb15 min

    Cover the stain with bicarbonate of soda or cornflour, leave it for 15 minutes to draw out the oil, and brush it off.

  3. 3Treat10 min

    Work washing-up liquid into both sides of the stain with your fingertips and leave it for 10 minutes.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Rinse in warm water, then wash at the warmest temperature the care label allows.

  5. 5Check

    Check the stain has gone before drying: oil marks hide while the fabric is wet.

Never tumble dry until you are sure it has gone: heat sets oil for good.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Blot

    Blot up as much oil as you can with kitchen roll.

  2. 2Sprinkle30 min

    Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda or cornflour over the stain, leave it for at least 30 minutes, then vacuum it up.

  3. 3DabWarm

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water, after a patch test, and blot from the outside in.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never pour water onto fresh oil: it spreads the stain instead of lifting it.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Wipe

    Wipe up fresh oil with kitchen roll.

  2. 2WashHot

    Wash the area with a cloth wrung out in hot water and washing-up liquid.

  3. 3Paste

    Rub sticky, set-in grease on tiles and cupboard doors with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water on a soft cloth, then rinse.

  4. 4Dry

    Dry with a clean cloth.

Never use oven cleaner on worktops or painted cupboards: it is made for ovens and can strip other finishes.

12

Hair dye

Permanent dye, made to bond: fresh splashes often come out and set ones often don’t, so treat it within minutes.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1RinseCold

    Rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap straight away, until the water runs clear.

  2. 2Treat15 min

    Work in a mix of washing-up liquid and a splash of white vinegar with your fingertips, leave it for 15 minutes, and rinse.

  3. 3Soak

    Soak any mark left in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use chlorine bleach on coloured fabric: it strips the fabric’s own colour first.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1BlotNow

    Blot fresh dye straight away with kitchen roll, from the outside in.

  2. 2MixCool

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid and a tablespoon of white vinegar into a mug of cool water, and patch test it.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab it on with a white cloth and blot, moving to a clean part of the cloth while colour is still lifting.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

  5. 5Call in

    Call a professional carpet cleaner for a stain that has set.

Never use bleach or hydrogen peroxide on carpet: they lift the carpet’s own colour and leave a pale patch.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeNow

    Wipe splashes straight away with a damp cloth: dye sets on grout and acrylic within minutes.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub marks left on ceramic or enamel with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, or a cream cleaner, on a soft cloth.

  3. 3Scrub10 min

    Work the paste into stained grout with an old toothbrush, leave it for 10 minutes, then rinse.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse and dry.

Never mix bleach with other bathroom cleaners to shift dye from grout: with ammonia, vinegar or a limescale remover, it gives off toxic gas.

13

Ink

Dye: ballpoint ink is oil-based and permanent marker alcohol-based, and both dissolve in isopropyl alcohol, while gel, rollerball and most felt-tip ink is water-based and lifts with cold water.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1CheckCold

    Check the fibre content on the label: alcohol can damage acetate, triacetate, acrylic and modacrylic, so on those try cold water first and take anything you are unsure of to a dry cleaner.

  2. 2Pad

    Put a pad of kitchen roll under the stain, so the ink has somewhere to go.

  3. 3Dab

    For ballpoint or permanent marker, dab with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton wool pad after a patch test, changing pads as the ink lifts. Permanent marker may not come out completely.

  4. 4DabCold

    For gel, rollerball or water-based felt-tip, dab with cold water and a drop of washing-up liquid instead.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Rinse under the cold tap, work in a little liquid detergent, then wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never use nail varnish remover: acetone dissolves acetate and some other synthetic fibres.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Blot

    Blot wet ink with kitchen roll, without pressing it in.

  2. 2Test

    For ballpoint or permanent marker on carpet or fabric upholstery, patch test isopropyl alcohol on a hidden spot.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab it on with a cotton wool pad and blot with a white cloth, changing pads as the ink lifts.

  4. 4DabCold

    For water-based ink, dab with a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of cold water instead.

  5. 5Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never put alcohol on leather or suede: it strips the finish and the colour, so use the maker’s leather cleaner or call a specialist.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Wipe

    Wipe ink on painted walls with a damp cloth and a drop of washing-up liquid first.

  2. 2Dab

    If it stays, dab gently with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton wool pad, after testing a hidden patch of wall.

  3. 3Wipe

    On laminate, glass and most hard plastics, wipe with isopropyl alcohol on a soft cloth, testing a hidden spot first.

  4. 4Wash

    Wash with soapy water, rinse and dry.

Never scrub matt paint: it polishes a shiny patch that shows more than the ink did.

14

Lipstick

Wax, oil and dye: lift the wax, break up the oil with washing-up liquid, then treat whatever colour is left.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Scrape

    Scrape off what you can with a blunt knife, lifting rather than smearing.

  2. 2Dab

    Lay the stain face down on kitchen roll and dab the back with washing-up liquid, so the colour moves into the paper.

  3. 3Treat10 min

    Work in a little more washing-up liquid with your fingertips, leave it for 10 minutes, and rinse in warm water.

  4. 4TreatLabel

    Treat any colour left with a stain remover that suits the fabric, then wash as the care label says and check before drying.

Never use hot water or the tumble dryer before the colour has gone: heat sets the dye.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Lift

    Lift off what you can with a blunt knife.

  2. 2DabWarm

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water, after a patch test, and blot.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab any colour left with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton wool pad, after a patch test, then blot.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never rub: lipstick smears, and every stroke spreads the colour further into the pile.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Wipe

    Wipe mirrors and glass with a drop of washing-up liquid on a damp microfibre cloth.

  2. 2WashHot

    Wash marked drinking glasses in hot water and washing-up liquid.

  3. 3DabWarm

    Dab lipstick on painted walls with washing-up liquid in warm water, without scrubbing.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse and buff dry.

Never spray cleaner straight onto a mirror: it runs into the edges and damages the silvering.

15

Mud

Soil: fine grit and clay that wet wiping pushes in, so let it dry and brush it off before anything else.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Dry

    Let the mud dry completely.

  2. 2Brush

    Brush or scrape off as much as you can outdoors, and shake the garment.

  3. 3Treat15 min

    Work liquid biological detergent into the mark from both sides (a wool detergent on wool), and leave it for 15 minutes.

  4. 4Soak

    Soak heavily stained kit in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never wipe or rinse wet mud: it pushes the fine particles deep into the weave.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Dry

    Leave the mud to dry completely.

  2. 2Vacuum

    Break it up gently and vacuum, going over it several times from different directions.

  3. 3DabWarm

    Dab any mark left with a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of warm water, after a patch test.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never over-wet the spot: wet soil sinks into the backing and wicks back up as a brown ring.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Sweep

    Let it dry, then sweep or vacuum up the loose soil, so you don’t grind grit into the floor.

  2. 2MopWarm

    Mop with warm water and a little washing-up liquid, wringing the mop out well on wood and laminate.

  3. 3Rinse

    Rinse with clean water and dry.

Never use a soaking-wet mop on wood or laminate: standing water swells the boards.

16

Red wine

Tannin with a strong red dye: it spreads fast and sets as it dries, so blot it while it is wet and keep it cold.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Blot

    Blot up as much as you can with kitchen roll, pressing rather than rubbing.

  2. 2RinseCold

    Stretch the stained part over a bowl and pour cold water through the back of the stain.

  3. 3Treat15 min

    Work in washing-up liquid or liquid detergent with your fingertips, leave it for 15 minutes, and rinse.

  4. 4Soak

    If pink is left, soak it in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never put it through a hot wash or the tumble dryer while any pink is left: heat fixes the dye.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1BlotNow

    Blot straight away with a white cloth or kitchen roll, pressing hard, from the outside in.

  2. 2DabCold

    Dab on cold water and blot again, until no more colour comes up.

  3. 3MixCool

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid and a tablespoon of white vinegar into a mug of cool water, and patch test it.

  4. 4Dab

    Dab it on and blot, then rinse by dabbing with clean water.

  5. 5Dry1 hr

    Weigh down a thick pad of kitchen roll on the spot for an hour.

Never rub, which spreads the wine and frays the pile, or use hot water, which sets the dye.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeNow

    Wipe up straight away with a damp cloth.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub any mark on laminate, ceramic or stainless steel with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water on a soft cloth, then rinse.

  3. 3ScrubWarm

    Scrub stained grout with an old toothbrush and a drop of washing-up liquid in warm water, then rinse, keeping the paste off it: bicarbonate of soda can react with red wine and leave a blue tinge in anything porous.

  4. 4Stone

    On marble or limestone, blot only, clean with a cleaner made for natural stone, and ask a stone specialist about a mark that stays.

Never use vinegar or lemon on marble or limestone: acids etch the surface.

17

Rust

Mineral: iron oxide dissolves in mild acids and turns darker with chlorine bleach, so use lemon juice or white vinegar, never bleach.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Check

    Check the care label, and take delicate or dry-clean-only fabrics to a dry cleaner.

  2. 2Lemon1 hr

    On white or colourfast fabric, patch test, then cover the rust with lemon juice and a sprinkle of salt for an hour.

  3. 3RinseCold

    Rinse well in cold water, and repeat if the mark is fading but not gone.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says.

Never use chlorine bleach on rust: it reacts with the iron and can make the stain darker and permanent.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Move

    Move the metal object or furniture that caused it, and let the area dry.

  2. 2Dab10 min

    Patch test, then dab a little lemon juice or white vinegar onto the mark with a cotton bud and leave it for 10 minutes.

  3. 3Blot

    Blot with a white cloth, then rinse by dabbing with clean water.

  4. 4Blot

    Blot dry, and call a carpet cleaner for a large or old mark.

Never put metal furniture feet back on damp carpet: they leave fresh rust rings.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Vinegar30 min

    On glazed ceramic and stainless steel, lay a cloth soaked in white vinegar over the mark for 30 minutes, keeping it off grout.

  2. 2Scrub

    Scrub gently with an old toothbrush or a non-scratch sponge.

  3. 3Rinse

    Rinse well and dry.

  4. 4Keep dry

    Stand metal cans on a plastic lid, or keep them off wet surfaces, so the ring doesn’t come back.

Never use vinegar, lemon or a rust remover on marble or limestone, or mix any of them with bleach: they etch the stone, and with bleach they give off toxic gas.

18

Tea

Tannin, usually with milk: cold water first for the milk, then detergent for the tannin, and the sooner the better.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1BlotCold

    Blot up what you can, then rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap.

  2. 2Treat10 min

    Work in a little liquid biological detergent with your fingertips (a wool detergent on wool and silk), and leave it for 10 minutes.

  3. 3Soak

    Soak an old or dried stain in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and check before drying.

Never pour hot water on a milky tea stain: heat sets the milk before the tannin is out.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1BlotNow

    Blot straight away with a white cloth, from the outside in.

  2. 2DabCold

    Dab on cold water and blot again, until no more colour lifts.

  3. 3MixCool

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid and a tablespoon of white vinegar into a mug of cool water, and patch test it.

  4. 4Dab

    Dab it on and blot, then rinse by dabbing with clean water and blot dry.

Never blot with a coloured cloth or tea towel: its dye can come off on the carpet.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1Sprinkle

    Sprinkle a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda into stained mugs and teapots, add a few drops of water, and rub with a soft sponge.

  2. 2SoakNight

    Leave heavily stained mugs overnight in hot water with a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, then wash.

  3. 3Paste

    Rub tea rings on worktops and sinks with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water on a soft cloth.

  4. 4Rinse

    Rinse and dry.

Never use wire wool or a scouring pad on china or enamel teapots: it scratches the glaze, and scratches stain faster.

19

Tomato sauce

Oil with a red-orange dye: scrape, rinse cold and break up the oil, then fade the colour, which daylight helps with.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1Scrape

    Scrape off the excess with a blunt knife or spoon, without pressing it in.

  2. 2RinseCold

    Rinse the back of the stain under the cold tap.

  3. 3Treat10 min

    Work in washing-up liquid with your fingertips, leave it for 10 minutes, and rinse.

  4. 4Dab

    Dab any orange left with white vinegar on a cloth, after a patch test, and rinse.

  5. 5WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, and if a shadow is left, dry it outdoors in daylight rather than in the tumble dryer.

Never use hot water before the stain is out: heat sets the colour.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Scoop

    Scoop up the sauce with a spoon, working from the outside in.

  2. 2BlotCold

    Blot with a white cloth dampened in cold water.

  3. 3DabCold

    Dab on a few drops of washing-up liquid in a mug of cold water, after a patch test, and blot.

  4. 4DabCool

    Dab any orange left with a tablespoon of white vinegar in a mug of cool water.

  5. 5Rinse

    Rinse by dabbing with clean water, and blot dry.

Never use a steam cleaner or hot water on it: heat sets the red.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe up with warm water and washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub orange marks on plastic tubs and utensils with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, then rinse.

  3. 3Daylight

    Leave stained plastic on a sunny windowsill for a day: daylight fades the colour.

  4. 4Wash

    Wash and dry.

Never leave tomato sitting on marble or limestone: it is acidic enough to etch a dull patch.

20

Yellow sweat marks

Protein and oil from sweat, bound up with antiperspirant: enzymes and an oxygen soak lift it, while heat and chlorine bleach turn it more yellow.

Clothes and fabric

  1. 1CheckCool

    Check the care label, then rinse the underarms in cool water.

  2. 2Soak

    Soak them in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label.

  3. 3Treat

    Work liquid biological detergent into the marks with a soft brush or your fingertips (a wool detergent on wool and silk).

  4. 4WashLabel

    Wash as the care label says, let it dry naturally, and check before using the tumble dryer or an iron.

Never use chlorine bleach: it reacts with sweat and antiperspirant and turns the marks a darker yellow.

Carpets and upholstery

  1. 1Wash

    Take off and wash any cover whose label allows it.

  2. 2MixCool

    Mix a few drops of washing-up liquid into a mug of cool water, and patch test it on a hidden spot.

  3. 3Dab

    Dab the marks on the mattress, sofa or headboard with a barely damp cloth dipped in it, then blot.

  4. 4Dab

    Dab with a cloth dampened in clean water, and let it dry completely.

  5. 5SprinkleHours

    Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda over a dry mattress to lift any smell, and vacuum it off after a few hours.

Never soak a mattress or a sofa cushion: the filling stays wet inside and goes musty.

Hard surfaces

  1. 1WipeWarm

    Wipe the yellowish film on headboards, painted walls and door frames with warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid.

  2. 2Paste

    Rub a stubborn film on gloss paint or laminate gently with a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water on a soft cloth.

  3. 3Rinse

    Rinse with a damp cloth and dry.

Never use a melamine sponge on matt or silk paint: it works like fine sandpaper and takes the paint off with the mark.

How to read the symbols

Blot with a white cloth or kitchen roll

Rinse under the cold tap, from the back

Dab with a damp cloth

Washing-up liquid or detergent

Soak

Bicarbonate of soda or cornflour

Isopropyl alcohol or peroxide on cotton wool

Lemon juice or white vinegar

Wash as the care label says

Let it dry, then check

Dry in daylight

Harden with ice or the freezer

Lift off with a blunt edge

Brown paper and a warm iron

Brush or scrub

Vacuum or sweep

Wipe, rinse or dry with a cloth

A dry cleaner or a professional

Never: the cross marks what sets the stain or harms the surface

How to use the finder

  1. 1Find the stain

    Search for it by name or scroll the list. Each entry starts with the kind of stain it is, because that decides the method.

  2. 2Check the label, then pick the surface

    Clothes and fabric, carpets and upholstery, or hard surfaces. If the care label says dry clean only, stop there and take it to a dry cleaner.

  3. 3Follow the steps in order

    Blot, don’t rub, and patch test anything you put on the stain on a hidden spot first. Read the Never line before you start.

Common stain questions

Hot or cold water: which should I use on a stain?

Cold, to start with. Heat cooks protein stains such as blood, egg, milk and sweat into the fibres, and it sets many dyes. Warm water helps with grease once washing-up liquid has broken the oil up. Keep anything stained away from the tumble dryer and the iron until the stain has completely gone.

Can I still get out a stain that has dried?

Often, yes. Soak it in cool water with biological detergent (a wool detergent for wool and silk), or in an oxygen-based stain remover as the pack directs, within the care label, then treat it as a fresh stain. It can take two or three rounds. A stain that has been through a hot wash and the tumble dryer may be there for good, though a dry cleaner can sometimes still help if you tell them what it was.

Is biological or non-bio detergent better for stains?

Biological detergent contains enzymes that break down protein, starch and fat, so it shifts food, blood, sweat and grass stains better, even in a cool wash. Non-bio has no enzymes. Wool and silk are protein fibres that the enzymes can damage, so wash those in a detergent made for them.

Should I mix bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar?

No. The fizz looks like cleaning, but the two cancel each other out and leave mostly water. Each works better on its own: bicarbonate of soda soaks up grease and smells and makes a gentle scouring paste, and white vinegar dissolves limescale and the film that soap and deodorant leave behind.

Which cleaning products should never be mixed?

Never mix bleach with ammonia, white vinegar or any other acid, including limescale removers and some toilet cleaners: together they give off toxic gas. Don’t mix any two cleaning products, in a bottle or on a stain. Use one, rinse it away thoroughly, then try the next, with a window open.

Why do I need a patch test, and how do I do one?

Dyes and finishes react differently, and a patch test shows you what will happen somewhere it won’t show. Dab a little of what you plan to use on a hidden spot, such as an inside seam, the back of a cushion or the carpet inside a wardrobe, wait 10 minutes, then blot with a white cloth. If colour comes off or the surface changes, stop and ask a professional.

When should I take it to a dry cleaner?

When the care label says dry clean only, and usually for silk, leather, suede and tailored wool, or anything old or valuable. Go as soon as you can, tell them what the stain is and what you have already tried, and don’t put water or a home remedy on dry-clean-only fabric first: water alone can leave a ring.